Century “Boilo” vs HDHMR – Which to Use for Cabinets?

Introduction (Why Compare Boilo and HDHMR for Cabinets)

Designing kitchen or bathroom cabinets means selecting materials that can withstand moisture, heat, and daily wear. Two contenders often come up: “Boilo” boards and HDHMR boards. “Boilo” is a term popularized by Century Ply (and also used by Action Tesa) for a Boiling Waterproof, Fire-Retardant HDF board – essentially a high-density fiberboard treated to be extremely water-resistant (even to boiling water) and fire-safe. HDHMR stands for High Density High Moisture Resistance board, an engineered wood product known for durability in interior use.

At first glance, Boilo and HDHMR seem similar – both are engineered fiberboards, both target moisture-prone areas, and both claim to be termite/borer proof. So which one should you use for cabinets, especially kitchen cabinets that see lots of humidity and spills? This article provides a deep comparison as of 2025, focusing on Century Ply’s “Boilo” board vs standard HDHMR boards (from any good brand). We’ll look at technical specs (density, waterproof rating, etc.), performance in real kitchens, cost differences, and ideal use cases for each.

This topic matters now because Indian homeowners have more choices beyond traditional plywood: HDHMR has become common for modular kitchens, and newer boards like Boilo push the envelope on water-proofing. If you’re investing in a cabinetry project, understanding the strengths of Boilo versus a regular HDHMR will ensure you pick the right material – balancing longevity, safety, and budget.

Let’s dive in by comparing what these boards are made of and their key properties side by side.

Technical Specs & Price Comparison

First, let’s clarify the two materials:

• Boilo Board: A Boiling Water Proof (BWP) Fire-Retardant HDF board introduced by Action Tesa and adopted by others like Century in their premium range. It’s essentially an HDF (High Density Fiberboard) with special resin and treatments to make it completely waterproof (able to resist boiling water) and fire-retardant (meets IS:5509 standards). Boilo’s density is extremely high – above 1000 kg/m³, making it one of the densest wood-based boards available. It is marketed as “born tough” for kitchens and damp areas, and often comes with lab certifications for one-hour boiling water tests, etc. Boilo boards are typically available in 12, 16, 18 mm thicknesses (and sometimes other sizes) and usually in an 8×4 ft sheet dimension. They often have a distinct grey core color due to additives (as reported by users and some product specs).
• HDHMR Board: A High Density, High Moisture Resistant board, also an engineered wood product but with a slightly lower density (usually ~800–880 kg/m³). HDHMR is water-resistant but not necessarily boil-proof or fire-retardant unless specially made so. It’s great for kitchens and interiors but is not usually warrantied against standing water or high heat. Common HDHMR (like Century’s Premium Plus HDMR or Action Tesa’s standard HDHMR) comes in a wide thickness range (3 mm up to 25 mm). It’s cheaper and more widely used than Boilo for general cabinetry.

Now, let’s compare them on key metrics:

From the table, it’s clear that Boilo is like “HDHMR on steroids”. It has greater density, truly impervious to water (even boiling conditions) and includes fire safety properties. HDHMR is no slouch – it’s highly moisture-resistant and strong – but Boilo pushes those qualities to an extreme.

However, Boilo’s enhancements come at a significantly higher cost. To put it in perspective, Boilo boards can cost anywhere from 30% to 60% more than a standard HDHMR of the same thickness. For example, an 18 mm Boilo might be ~₹150 per sq.ft whereas a good HDHMR is ~₹100 per sq.ft. So, there is a premium for that boil-proof and fire-retardant capability.

Another factor is availability: Standard HDHMR boards (Century’s “HDMR Premium Plus”, Action Tesa HDHMR, Greenpanel HDWR, etc.) are widely available across suppliers. Boilo, being a specialty product, may not be stocked everywhere or might have to be pre-ordered, especially in certain thicknesses or finishes. Action Tesa pioneered Boilo and you might find their brand readily in some cities, whereas Century’s equivalent might be limited in distribution as of 2025.

In terms of technical makeup, it’s worth noting: Boilo uses phenolic resins (PF) similar to marine plywood, which give it the waterproof and fire-retardant characteristics. Standard HDHMR often uses melamine-urea formaldehyde resin. This resin difference is one reason Boilo is costlier (phenolic resin is more expensive and harder to work with), but it yields a board that basically behaves like a “solid plastic wood” – water just doesn’t penetrate.

Now that we’ve compared the specs, in the next section we’ll discuss how these differences play out in actual performance, especially in cabinet applications.

Performance Analysis: Moisture, Strength & Durability in Cabinets

Moisture Resistance & Waterproofing: In a kitchen or bathroom cabinet context, moisture is the enemy. Here, Boilo is the ultimate champion. It’s certified BWP (Boiling Water Proof), meaning you could literally boil it and it won’t delaminate or swell. For instance, if the sink above leaks and fills your cabinet with water that sits for hours, a Boilo board cabinet would survive essentially unscathed – no warping, no fungal growth (it’s also fungicide-treated). In contrast, a standard HDHMR board in the same situation would likely swell at the edges or wherever water seeps in over time. HDHMR is highly moisture-resistant for day-to-day splashes and high humidity – as noted earlier, it won’t warp under normal kitchen humidity or occasional spills. Many users have HDHMR cabinets for years with no swelling, provided there’s no prolonged waterlogging. But extended exposure to water (like a puddle that isn’t dried, or a flood) will eventually cause HDHMR to swell or fibers to soften.

So in terms of moisture performance: Boilo has a clear edge. It essentially makes cabinets “oops-proof” for worst-case scenarios like a pipe burst or continuous dampness. HDHMR is generally sufficient for typical conditions – e.g., cabinets in Mumbai surviving monsoon humidity or a bit of splashed water, as many case studies show – but Boilo provides a higher margin of safety.

Strength & Load Bearing: Both Boilo and standard HDHMR are dense, strong boards that handle weight well. Boilo, having higher density, is extremely rigid – as the Action Tesa specs mention, its bending strength far exceeds IS requirements. In a practical sense, a shelf of Boilo vs a shelf of HDHMR of the same thickness will have very similar sag resistance for typical spans; the difference isn’t large because HDHMR is already strong. If anything, Boilo’s extra density means it can bear slightly more load before bending. But remember, Boilo is also heavier (density ~1.0 vs 0.8 g/cc); the extra weight doesn’t help if the shelf is unsupported. For normal cabinet spans (2–3 feet), both materials do fine if 18 mm thick. For longer spans or heavier loads, one would add supports regardless. Screw holding strength is excellent in both, but Boilo’s screw holding is marginally superior due to its harder core – screws bite very tightly, and test data claim the screw withdrawal of Boilo is on par or better than high-grade plywood. HDHMR holds screws well too – carpenters find it sufficient for hinges and seldom report issues if using the right screws and pilot holes. However, one consideration: because Boilo is so dense and uses phenolic resin, it can be a bit harder on tools. Drilling and screwing into Boilo might dull bits faster than with standard HDHMR (which itself is tougher on tools than plywood). It’s not a big deal if using carbide tools, but worth noting.

Durability & Longevity: Over the long term, both boards are durable, but Boilo’s added protections potentially give it an edge in longevity under harsh conditions. In an indoor environment where catastrophic water exposure doesn’t happen, an HDHMR cabinet can last just as long as a Boilo one – easily 15+ years. Boilo’s advantage is in preventing those rare failures (like a hidden slow leak causing particle disintegration – Boilo won’t have that). Also, Boilo is fire-retardant, which means in the unfortunate event of a kitchen fire, Boilo boards will not contribute to flames and will char slowly rather than ignite. Regular HDHMR is similar to wood in fire behavior (will catch fire eventually). So Boilo brings a safety aspect that standard HDHMR lacks. This could be crucial in certain settings (laboratories, commercial kitchens, or for very safety-conscious homeowners).

Termite-wise, both are extremely resistant. Termites generally won’t touch either (as we discussed earlier, HDHMR is considered termite-proof in practice). The additional density and phenolic resin in Boilo is certainly not appetizing to any insects, so both materials will keep pests at bay without separate chemical treatments.

One more aspect of performance is stability with temperature and humidity changes. Boilo’s phenolic resin and high density might make it slightly more dimensionally stable – meaning even less expansion/contraction with climate changes. HDHMR is already stable (far more than solid wood or low-density boards) so the difference is minimal. But Boilo boards are kind of “the tank” – they remain inert in most conditions.

To summarize performance: if your use case is extreme – say, cabinets directly next to a heat source, or in a bathroom where they might get wet regularly, or you just want the absolute best – Boilo wins. It’s engineered to endure abuse (water, fire, heavy load). For normal kitchen and wardrobe applications, a standard HDHMR does the job well, provided it’s installed correctly with sealed edges and there are no serious mishaps. HDHMR has been successfully used in thousands of kitchens with great outcomes. Boilo is a more niche “belt-and-suspenders” choice when you want extra peace of mind or have a specific need (e.g., a kitchen where you absolutely expect heavy water exposure or a requirement for fire-retardant interiors, such as a restaurant).

Next, we’ll consider best use cases for each – when should you opt for Boilo and when is HDHMR more than enough, especially thinking about different parts of the house and project types.

Applications / Best Use Cases

Where to Use Boilo Board: Boilo is best reserved for scenarios where its unique properties shine and justify the cost: - Kitchen areas with high exposure to water: For example, the sink cabinet base in a kitchen. This is the most leak-prone area. Using Boilo for the bottom panel and sides under a sink is a great idea if budget permits. Even if water accumulates, Boilo won’t deform. Similarly, cabinets right next to a hob or chimney (exposed to heat) benefit from Boilo’s fire-retardance. - Bathrooms and laundries: Vanity cabinets in bathrooms, especially if very close to the shower or if you have kids splashing often. Boilo boards can handle the damp floor mopping, wet towels thrown in, etc. Also, in a laundry area where a washing machine might leak, Boilo cabinetry would survive the incident. - Commercial kitchens, labs, hospitals: These places have stringent requirements. Restaurant kitchens undergo regular wash-downs; Boilo’s waterproof and anti-fungal nature is ideal. Laboratories might have chemical spills or need fire resistance – Boilo fits the bill (being chemically inert to water and high heat). Hospitals may prefer Boilo for cabinetry because of its zero water absorption (so no mold) and possibly the virus/fungus resistance some brands claim (like Action Tesa’s Boilo is marketed as anti-microbial). - Exterior or semi-exterior usage: While Boilo is not typically marketed for exteriors, its waterproof nature means it could be used in semi-outdoor cabinets or shelters. For instance, an outdoor barbecue counter enclosed with Boilo board will fare better in rain humidity than HDHMR (though you’d still need to weatherproof it). Or a small cabinet on a balcony that might get some rain splash – Boilo can withstand that for longer. It’s still wood-based, so direct rain and sun will eventually affect it, but Boilo would last much longer than normal engineered wood in such conditions. - Fire-safe partitions or doors: Boilo boards (at least Action Tesa’s variant) have been used to make fire-retardant doors and partitions, because they meet certain flame spread criteria. If you require an internal partition that needs to be fire-retardant and moisture-proof (like a server room enclosure, or a pantry wall near heat), Boilo is suitable. Standard HDHMR isn’t fire-rated, so it wouldn’t qualify in those scenarios.

Basically, Boilo is a specialty material for damp, hot, high-risk environments. For a typical home kitchen, one might strategically use a sheet or two of Boilo for critical areas (sink module, etc.) and use HDHMR elsewhere to manage cost.

Where to Use HDHMR Board: Standard HDHMR is a great all-rounder for most interior carpentry: - All residential cabinets and furniture in living rooms, bedrooms, studies, etc., where extreme water exposure isn’t expected. Wardrobes, TV units, bookshelves, bed-boxes – HDHMR handles these with ease, and Boilo would be overkill here. HDHMR’s smooth surface and strength are perfect for these. - Kitchen cabinets except critical wet zones: For carcasses and shutters away from the sink (or if you’re comfortable that you won’t have leaks), HDHMR is more cost-effective and still moisture-resistant enough. For instance, overhead cabinets, pantry units, drawers – HDHMR is sufficient. Many modular kitchen companies use HDHMR for entire kitchens and have done so for years successfully. - Office and retail furniture: Desks, workstations, display counters – HDHMR provides the durability needed. It’s also typically lighter than Boilo, so easier to handle in large installations. Unless the environment demands BWP or FR (e.g., a lab, as mentioned), HDHMR is the economical choice that performs well. - Large thickness requirements: If you need boards thicker than 18 mm (like 25 mm for a heavy countertop or stage floor), you’ll find them in HDHMR options. Boilo usually doesn’t come that thick widely. So HDHMR would be your go-to for thick sections. - Budget-sensitive projects: If you’re on a tight budget but still need a moisture-resistant solution, HDHMR gives you 90% of the performance of Boilo at a fraction of cost. For example, if doing a modular kitchen for a rental property or a client with limited funds, HDHMR is the practical choice – it will hold up well and be far better than MDF or particle board, without the premium of Boilo.

A note on mixing use: It’s not uncommon to mix materials in one project: use Boilo where truly needed and HDHMR elsewhere. They can be finished to look identical (since finish is laminate/paint). For instance, perhaps use Boilo for the bottom panels of all lower cabinets (which are most prone to water) and HDHMR for the rest. Or Boilo for bathroom vanity, HDHMR for bedroom cabinets. This hybrid approach can optimize both performance and cost.

Now that we know when to use which, let’s discuss any aesthetic or design differences between Boilo and HDHMR, though they are similar to work with.

Design & Aesthetic Differences

From a design perspective, Boilo and HDHMR boards look and behave quite similarly once installed, but there are a few practical points:

• Surface Finish & Painting: Both Boilo and HDHMR have smooth, homogeneous surfaces ideal for laminating or painting. You won’t see a difference in the final look of a cabinet made from Boilo vs one from HDHMR – the appearance is dictated by the laminate or paint applied. Boilo’s surface is often grey (due to cementitious fire retardants) rather than the tan of HDHMR, but this only matters if you leave it unpainted (which you usually wouldn’t for cabinets). When painting, both boards give an excellent finish akin to MDF – smooth and even. One small caution: because Boilo is so dense and has phenolic resin, it can be less absorbent. This means if you’re painting or veneering, the adhesives or primers might take a bit longer to cure on Boilo. It’s not a big difference, but some woodworkers note that glue takes a bit more time to grab on phenolic surfaces. Scuff sanding the surface can help.
• Machining & Detailing: Both boards can be machined for decorative grooves or CNC patterns. HDHMR is known for taking intricate routed designs cleanly due to its uniform density. Boilo, being harder, also routes well – in fact, it can produce very crisp edges, but you must use sharp carbide tools to avoid any burning (phenolic resin can char if the router bit is dull). If one were to compare, Boilo might produce slightly sharper edges on a cut due to its hardness – for example, a sharp corner might hold better without slight fiber fuzzing that a lower-density board could have. But practically, both are used for CNC cut shutters and give a high-quality finish. Neither has grain, so there’s no issue of chip-out like with plywood.
• Edge Banding & Adhesives: Edgebanding is essential for both. HDHMR edges band nicely; Boilo edges also band nicely but you might need a higher temperature or stronger glue for perfect adhesion, as the phenolic surface is less porous. Edge band manufacturers often indicate which of their glues are suited for HDF vs MDF – an “HD Glue” or similar is recommended for Boilo. Visually, there’s no difference – you’ll edge band both and it will look the same. If using screws and wanting to conceal them with putty, both boards can be puttied and painted seamlessly (no grain to telegraph).
• Color and Core Identification: As mentioned, Boilo’s core is usually a distinct color (often dark grey or greenish depending on brand) due to additives. Standard HDHMR core is typically brown/wood-colored (sometimes with a green tint if manufacturer adds a green dye to signify moisture-resistant grade). This only matters in the sense that a carpenter can tell them apart at a glance. Once laminated, you don’t see the core anyway.
• Availability of Prelaminated Options: Standard HDHMR boards are sold in both plain and prelam (factory-laminated) forms by many brands. This means you can buy, say, an HDHMR with a white laminate already pressed on it, saving you finishing time. Boilo boards, being niche, might have limited prelam options. They are generally sold plain (with the expectation you’ll laminate or veneer them yourself). If you require a prelaminated Boilo (for instance, Action Tesa does have some Boilo in prelam finishes), the color choices may be limited (common solid colors or a few woodgrains). So, for a specific decor, you might not find a Boilo prelam readily, whereas with HDHMR you have a plethora of prelam decors available (Century, Greenpanel, etc., all offer dozens of shades). In custom cabinet work, this isn’t a big issue since you often laminate manually to match your design.
• Workability: For the carpenters/designers reading – HDHMR boards are heavy but workable with standard carpentry tools. Boilo pushes the limit; cutting and drilling Boilo might require a bit more effort and may wear out blades faster. It’s akin to working with very hard wood. As a designer, you wouldn’t notice a difference in the final product’s aesthetic, but you might observe the carpenters swapping blades or complaining slightly more when cutting Boilo due to its toughness. As long as they are prepared (using tungsten-carbide saw blades, for example), it won’t affect quality. Clean 90° cuts, sharp edges, etc., are all achievable on both materials.

In summary, aesthetically and design-wise, Boilo and HDHMR are interchangeable in almost every way. You won’t be able to tell if a cabinet is Boilo or HDHMR by looking at it once finished. The differences lie under the surface (in performance, as we covered). So your design considerations (color, style, shape) can be executed with either. The real considerations are functional and cost-oriented, which we’ll address next in a cost/value summary.

Cost vs Value Assessment

Choosing between Boilo and HDHMR often comes down to weighing cost against the level of protection/performance needed. Let’s analyze the value proposition:

Cost Difference: As outlined, Boilo boards are significantly more expensive. For example, if outfitting a kitchen that needs 10 sheets of 18 mm material, using Boilo could cost in the realm of ₹45,000–₹50,000 for boards, whereas HDHMR might cost ₹30,000–₹35,000 for boards (approx figures). That’s a ₹15k+ difference on material alone, which might be 5–10% of a full kitchen budget. If that extra spend prevents a potential water damage rebuild or adds longevity, it could be worth it – but if such incidents never occur, one might feel it was over-engineering.

Value of Boilo’s Extra Features: Consider Boilo as an insurance policy. You pay more upfront for capabilities you may never fully utilize. If you never have a major leak or fire (hopefully so!), Boilo’s advantages don’t manifest tangibly; your cabinets won’t look or function different from HDHMR ones in normal use. However, if something goes wrong – say a hidden slow plumbing leak – Boilo could save you from having to replace the cabinet carcass. That is real value. Also, Boilo often comes with lengthy warranties (e.g., some offer 20-year warranty against water/termite) which indicates the manufacturer’s confidence and means you have recourse if something fails. HDHMR generally works fine, but the warranties are shorter.

Where HDHMR is Sufficient: For many homeowners, a good HDHMR (especially from a reputed brand with maybe E1 low emission and anti-borer guarantee) is sufficient and gives a better bang for the buck. It dramatically improves on old-school particle board or low-end plywood at a mid-range cost. If you allocate budget smartly, you can often do all your cabinets in HDHMR for the cost of doing maybe only the lower cabinets in Boilo. And given HDHMR typically lasts for decades in interior conditions (especially if you’re not drenching it in water), its cost-to-lifespan ratio is excellent. You’re not likely to replace HDHMR cabinets any sooner than Boilo ones under normal conditions, meaning HDHMR delivers ~90% of the lifespan at ~60-70% of the cost.

Pros and Cons Summary:

• Boilo – Pros: Ultimate water protection (peace of mind in kitchens/baths), built-in fire safety (could save property/lives in a fire scenario), extremely robust (won’t warp or sag over time), long warranty and fewer worries about edge sealing (though you should still seal edges). These boards can potentially prevent costly repairs – one severe leak under a sink could ruin a normal board but not Boilo, saving you from re-carpentry. If your project is high-end and longevity and safety are top priorities, Boilo adds value.
• Boilo – Cons: High upfront cost (which might be unnecessary if those extreme conditions never occur). Heavier weight can slightly increase labor cost or difficulty. Limited availability can mean fewer competitive pricing options and possibly delays if not in stock. Over-engineering – in a dry, well-maintained kitchen, Boilo won’t give extra functional benefit to justify cost; HDHMR would have performed fine for less.
• HDHMR – Pros: Much more economical while still giving excellent performance in cabinets (ample moisture and termite resistance for normal use). Widely available – easier to source exactly when and how much you need. Offers variety in finishes and thickness (more flexible for design needs). Proven track record in countless homes – so its “value” is seen in the field, with many customers happy that they didn’t need to pay more for their cabinets to last. Lighter than Boilo – slightly easier installation (value in labor). In essence, you pay less and still get a durable, high-performing cabinet board.
• HDHMR – Cons: It’s not “foolproof” – it still requires that you be mindful of not leaving water stagnant on it. If something severe happens (like a flood or major leak), HDHMR might get damaged and require part replacement, whereas Boilo might not – so there’s a risk trade-off. No inherent fire resistance, which in some environments could be a con (though in regular homes it’s not typically a decided factor). Slightly shorter warranty – but again, if it’s going to fail due to manufacturing defect, it would usually show early on.

ROI Considerations: If you’re renovating a personal home and plan to live long-term, Boilo’s extra cost could be seen as an investment for peace of mind and potentially avoiding a mid-life refurbishment due to moisture issues. If you’re doing a quick project or a property flip, HDHMR provides the needed quality at a lower cost, improving your ROI. In commercial projects where downtime from repairs is very costly, Boilo might pay off by virtually eliminating moisture-related failures (for instance, a restaurant can’t afford a day of kitchen closure due to cabinet repairs – Boilo ensures that scenario is unlikely).

Hybrid Approach (Value maximization): As mentioned, many find the best value solution is using a mix: Put Boilo only where its strengths matter (maybe 10-20% of board usage) and HDHMR for the rest. This keeps additional cost minimal while protecting critical areas. The value here is you pay maybe 5% more overall, but you targeted the insurance where needed. This requires good coordination (ensuring both boards are available and the carpenter uses the right sheet in the right place), but the end result can optimize performance per rupee.

In summary, HDHMR is the value winner for most standard cabinet projects, giving you durability at a reasonable price. Boilo is a premium upgrade – you pay quite a bit more for a margin of safety that, if utilized, is extremely valuable (averting damage), but if not utilized, is just an extra cost. Therefore, whether Boilo is “worth it” depends on how you weigh potential risks in your use case and budget allowance. We’ll answer some FAQs next to address common concerns and decision points readers have between these two materials.

FAQs

Is Century “Boilo” just a marketing name or a different material than HDHMR?

Answer: “Boilo” is a specific product name referring to a Boiling Waterproof, Fire-Retardant HDF board. It is indeed a different material than standard HDHMR in composition. Standard HDHMR is highly moisture-resistant fiberboard, but Boilo takes it further by using a different resin (phenolic, similar to marine ply glue) and adding fire retardant chemicals. In essence, Boilo is a type of high-grade HDF. For instance, Action Tesa Boilo boards are tested to not swell even after hours in boiling water. Century Ply has adopted the term for its top-line waterproof fiberboard as well. So, while both Boilo and HDHMR are engineered wood boards made from wood fibers, Boilo isn’t just a rebranded HDHMR – it’s an enhanced version with superior water and fire performance. Think of HDHMR as a solid sedan car, and Boilo as the top-model with all upgrades (ABS, airbags, etc.) – both drive, but one has extra safety features. The name “Boilo” itself was coined to emphasize the boiling-water-proof aspect.

Do I really need Boilo for my kitchen cabinets, or is HDHMR enough?

Answer: For most kitchens, a good HDHMR board is sufficient and performs very well, as long as you take normal care (wipe up spills, don’t let water pool indefinitely, and seal the edges during installation). HDHMR can handle high humidity and the occasional leak under the sink if caught in time – it won’t warp or bubble with everyday use. However, consider Boilo if: 1) You want extra insurance against a major water incident (e.g., you travel often and a leak might go unnoticed for days – Boilo gives more time without damage), 2) Your cabinets are directly exposed to water frequently (like a vanity next to a shower or a sink with no drip tray – Boilo would better survive constant splashing), or 3) You’re extremely risk-averse or have had past bad experiences with water damage. Also, Boilo is warranted to be waterproof, so if peace of mind from a long warranty is important, that’s a factor. For a typical family kitchen, many users and contractors report HDHMR has held up excellently. So, if budget is a concern, HDHMR is usually enough. Boilo is a “nice-to-have” for that added safety margin. Another middle ground: use Boilo just for the susceptible areas (sink base, etc.) and HDHMR for the rest – this way you’re covered where it matters and save money elsewhere.

How much more expensive is Boilo compared to regular HDHMR?

Answer: Boilo boards can be roughly 30% to 60% more expensive per square foot than standard HDHMR of the same thickness, depending on brand and region. For example, if an 18 mm HDHMR is ₹100/sq.ft, an 18 mm Boilo might be around ₹140–₹150/sq.ft. In terms of full sheet, a Boilo sheet (8×4) could be ₹4,500–₹5,000, whereas an HDHMR sheet might be ₹3,000–₹3,200. This premium increases the overall cabinet cost accordingly. However, since material is one part of cabinet cost (there’s also hardware, labor, finishes), the total project might go up by 10-15% if using Boilo everywhere. Some context: Action Tesa’s Boilo carries about a 50% premium over their normal HDHMR in many markets. Century’s “Architect Ply Boilo HDF” (as some dealers call it) is similarly high-end. If you only use Boilo for select portions, the cost impact can be minimized. It’s definitely a pricier product due to the expensive resin and additives (phenolic resin and fire retardants are costlier than normal binders).

Are Boilo boards heavier or harder to work with than HDHMR?

Answer: Yes, Boilo boards are denser and thus heavier than standard HDHMR. An 18 mm Boilo board could weigh around 50+ kg per sheet, whereas an 18 mm HDHMR might be ~40 kg. Carpenters will notice the weight when handling large pieces. Workability: Boilo’s hardness can make cutting and machining a bit slower – it can dull saw blades and router bits faster due to the phenolic resin content and higher density. It also may require pre-drilling for screws more often, as it’s less forgiving than slightly softer HDHMR (which itself one should pre-drill for best results). That said, any carpenter equipped for HDHMR/MDF work can handle Boilo – just that it’s like cutting through a harder wood. As for finishing, because Boilo doesn’t absorb much moisture, if you’re painting it, you might find the drying times slightly longer for certain paints or glues (since they sit on the surface more). In summary, Boilo is a bit more labor-intensive – nothing unmanageable, but expect maybe blades to be sharpened/replaced a bit more frequently and panels to be heavy to lift. It’s a trade-off for the performance it gives. If your carpenter hasn’t worked with Boilo before, let them know it’s similar to working with a very hard teak in feel – using sharp tools and maybe slightly lower feed speeds yields the best results.

Can Boilo and HDHMR be used together in the same project (will they look or join differently)?

Answer: Absolutely, you can mix Boilo and HDHMR boards in the same project. They have the same thickness standards and similar composition, so they join and finish identically. For instance, you could have a cabinet where the body is HDHMR and the bottom panel is Boilo for extra waterproofing – and once laminated, you would never know the difference. They can be screwed together, glued together, etc., with no issues. The exterior finish (laminate or paint) will cover both seamlessly. Many fabricators do this intentionally to balance cost and performance. Just keep track of which piece is which during construction (since raw they might look different in color). As long as you’re consistent with thickness (don’t mix 17mm with 18mm etc., but Boilo and HDHMR both come in 18mm, 12mm, etc.), everything lines up flush. There’s no chemical incompatibility or anything. So yes, using Boilo for, say, the bottom of sink cabinets and HDHMR for the rest of those cabinets is a common practice. Structurally, they behave similarly, so your cabinet won’t have weird stresses from mixing. Think of it like mixing two brands of plywood – fine as long as specs match. Here, the spec (thickness, dimensions) matches, with Boilo just being a more robust material. So feel free to mix to optimize your project.

Is Boilo board fireproof? What happens to each board in a fire?

Answer: Boilo boards are fire-retardant, not completely fireproof. That means they are treated to resist ignition and will char rather than burst into flames immediately. They conform to standards (like IS 5509) for flame spread – meaning if you hold a flame to it, it won’t catch fire easily, and if it does, it will self-extinguish when the flame source is removed. In a real scenario like a kitchen fire, Boilo cabinetry would not contribute much to the fire and could give extra time as it doesn’t flash up. It can be considered “fire-safe”. Standard HDHMR, on the other hand, is combustible like regular wood – it will catch fire if exposed to sufficient flame/heat and will burn. It might burn a bit slower than plywood because of density and resin, but it’s not rated or designed to resist fire. So, in terms of fire safety, Boilo offers a clear advantage. That said, Boilo is not as fireproof as, say, a metal cabinet – eventually, in prolonged fire, it will char through, but it may not actively propagate the fire. For most homeowners, the primary concern is moisture, but if fire safety is part of your criteria (for example, some commercial places have fire code requirements for materials), Boilo meets those whereas HDHMR typically doesn’t. It’s a bit of a bonus in residential use – not usually the sole reason to choose Boilo, but a reassuring extra feature.

Do Boilo or HDHMR emit harmful chemicals or smell, especially due to water-proofing treatments?

Answer: Both Boilo and HDHMR are engineered with formaldehyde-based resins, but major brands produce them in E1 or even E0 emission standards nowadays, meaning formaldehyde emissions are very low (within safe limits for indoor air). After installation, neither should have a significant odor. Some users note a “new wood” smell with HDHMR initially, but it dissipates. Boilo, because of phenolic resin, might have a slight phenolic odor if you sniff an unlaminated board, similar to marine plywood’s scent, but again, once laminated and aired out, it shouldn’t make your space smell. The waterproofing chemicals in Boilo (phenolic resin) are cured in the board and are not off-gassing in daily use. In fact, Century’s and Action’s premium boards often advertise as Environment-friendly E0/E1 grades. During cutting, you should wear a mask as the dust from either board isn’t great to inhale (like any wood dust plus formaldehyde). But in your cabinets, they’re quite safe. If you are very sensitive or health-conscious, you could opt for brands that explicitly label E0 (zero formaldehyde) HDHMR – those exist. Boilo typically meets at least E1. So neither will “emit harmful chemicals” beyond the acceptable norms for furniture. To be doubly sure, you can edge band and laminate all surfaces (which effectively seals any minimal emissions inside). After installation, a day or two of airing out the cabinets is usually enough. Thereafter, your kitchen or wardrobe won’t have any noticeable smell from the boards.

Conclusion:

Both Century’s Boilo board and standard HDHMR boards are excellent modern materials that outperform traditional wood panels in moisture-heavy environments. Which should you use for cabinets? If you demand the absolute highest moisture and fire protection and are willing to invest more, Boilo is the clear winner – it’s virtually waterproof and adds a layer of safety for a kitchen or bath that no other wood board can match. On the other hand, if you’re looking for a cost-effective yet robust solution, a quality HDHMR board will likely meet your needs, providing long-lasting, termite-proof cabinets that handle everyday use and the occasional splash perfectly well.

For many homeowners, a hybrid approach is the smartest: use HDHMR for the majority of the cabinetry, and incorporate one or two Boilo sheets in critical areas (like under-sink modules or bathroom vanity base). This way, you get 90% of Boilo’s benefits at a fraction of the cost.

Remember, factors like edge sealing, good design (e.g., drip trays, proper ventilation), and maintenance will greatly influence how any board performs over time. Even Boilo benefits from these best practices to keep cabinets in top shape.

In summary, choose Boilo for peace of mind in extreme conditions, and choose HDHMR for reliable performance in normal conditions. Both will result in beautiful, functional cabinets if used appropriately.

If you’re still unsure or want guidance tailored to your specific project, feel free to Request a Quote or Consultation – our team can help recommend the right material mix and get you competitive prices on genuine Century/Action boards. Here’s to building cabinets that stay strong and trouble-free for years to come!

Explore more: Interested in other comparisons? Check out century-ply-hdhmr-board-review for a deep dive on Century’s standard HDHMR, or read hdhmr-vs-marine-plywood-bwp to see how HDHMR stacks up against traditional marine ply in wet areas. Stay informed and build smart!

Disclaimer: This article is generated using AI-assisted research and is intended for informational purposes only. While we strive for accuracy, readers are advised to verify all technical, pricing, and brand-specific details with official sources. hdhmr.in is not liable for any decisions made based on this content.