HDHMR vs Cement Fiber Board (Bison Panel) – Termite‑Proof Boards

Introduction

Wood-loving pests and dampness can destroy traditional wood products. Two materials have risen to tackle this: HDHMR boards and cement fiber boards (commonly known by brand “Bison Panel”). Both are touted as termite-proof and moisture-resistant, but they’re very different in makeup. HDHMR (High Density High Moisture Resistant) is an engineered wood board made by compressing wood fibers with resins – essentially a super-strong, water-resistant fiberboard. Cement fiber board, on the other hand, is made by mixing wood particles or fibers with cement, yielding a concrete-like sheet that’s impervious to insects and rot.

If you’re deciding between these for a project – say, kitchen cabinets vs an outdoor shed – it’s crucial to understand their strengths and limitations. This article will compare HDHMR vs cement fiber board on:

·       Termite and pest resistance (both are very termite-proof – but is one absolutely immune?)

·       Moisture and weather resistance (can HDHMR handle rain? Can cement board be used for furniture?)

·       Strength and usage (which is stronger or more stable? How do they handle screws and loads?)

·       Workability (cutting, shaping, finishing – from a carpenter’s perspective)

·       Cost and availability (what’s the price range and where are they found)

·       Best applications (where you should use one over the other – interiors vs exteriors, structural vs non-structural)

By the end, you’ll know if you should build that termite-proof cabinet with HDHMR or if a cement-bonded Bison panel would be better for your purpose (or perhaps a combination of both!). For up-to-date pricing, see our  HDHMR board price list 2025

Technical Composition & Properties

First, let’s briefly describe the two materials:

• HDHMR Board: Made of wood fibers (often eucalyptus/hardwood fibers or chips) that are bonded with synthetic resins (like MUF – melamine urea formaldehyde) under high pressure and temperature. It’s a type of high-density fiberboard specially formulated to resist moisture and termites. Typical density ~800–880 kg/m³. It is homogeneous (no layers like plywood). Often comes in standard sheets (8×4 ft) and various thicknesses (usually 6mm up to 18 or 25mm). It’s Termite & borer resistant by design (resin and high density make it unpalatable to insects). It’s water-resistant, not 100% waterproof – absorbs minimal moisture (e.g., <10% thickness swell in 24h water soak for good brands). Must be kept sealed for best performance.
• Cement Fiber Board (Cement Bonded Particle Board) e.g., Bison Panel: Made of Portland cement (about 60%) and wood particles (about 20-30%) plus chemicals like water repellents. Essentially, wood flakes or fibers are coated and pressed with cement into sheets. High density ~1200–1300 kg/m³ – much heavier than HDHMR. Standard sizes like 8×4 ft; common thicknesses 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 18mm, 25mm. It’s inorganic on the surface, so Termite-proof and fungus-proof – termites do not eat cement (and the wood content is mineralized by cement). It’s also highly water-resistant and weatherproof – often used in exteriors, can endure rain, sun (though cement boards can absorb some water, they won’t rot; they might need paint to protect from water ingress over time). Non-combustible and dimensionally stable under temperature changes. Downside: brittle nature – more like concrete than wood in how it breaks (can snap under heavy load if not supported).

Now let’s compare key properties:

In essence, HDHMR is a wood-based board optimized for interior use (furniture, cabinets, indoor partitions) where you need moisture and termite resistance with wood-like workability. Cement fiber board is a pseudo-concrete sheet best for exterior or structural applications (like cladding, roofing substrates, wet area walls) where absolute rot-proof, termite-proof performance is needed, even if it’s harder to work with.

Next, let’s analyze how these differences play out in real-world performance and usage.

Performance Analysis: Strength, Durability & Moisture Resistance

Termite & Pest Resistance: Both materials are top-notch in this aspect, arguably the best in their categories. HDHMR – termites generally avoid it because the wood fibers are bound in resin and often chemically treated. There have been cases reported where a termite-infested house had all plywood eaten but HDHMR cabinets untouched. It’s “as close to termite-proof as an organic board can get”. Cement fiber board goes a step further: it’s practically inorganic at the surface (cement), so termites, ants, rodents – they do not recognize it as food or nesting material at all. Bison Panel has a long history in rural construction precisely because termites in those areas can’t chew it. In performance, for interiors both keep termites at bay; for situations with very high termite pressure or direct ground contact, cement board might inspire more confidence (people even use Bison board as a barrier – e.g., lining the base of walls to stop termites).

Also, cement boards are immune to fungus and mold (they’re alkaline due to cement). HDHMR, if left damp, can grow surface mold (not feed on the board but on moisture) – though good brands often incorporate anti-fungal additives. In tropical humidity, an HDHMR wardrobe if not well ventilated could see some mildew if unlaminated inside; a cement board doesn’t support mold growth readily (though if dirt accumulates on paint, mold can grow on that). So for absolute pest/mold resistance, cement board has a slight edge, but for typical use both are practically pest-proof with proper finishing.

Moisture & Weather: HDHMR is strictly an interior-grade solution in terms of weather. It handles indoor moisture (like bathroom/kitchen steam, occasional splashes) great. But it’s not meant to be rained on. If used in say an outdoor bench without proper sealing, it will soak water over time at unsealed edges and swell or deteriorate. The resin and waxes in HDHMR slow water absorption but don’t make it waterproof – think of it as water-resistant like a “marine MDF.” So, in performance: in a kitchen or bath, HDHMR performs excellently – cabinets don’t warp through monsoons, no swelling as long as laminates are intact. In direct rain? It will fail after extended exposure – not immediately, but months of rain cycles would cause swelling/delamination in non-coated HDHMR. Cement board thrives in moisture. It’s used for soffits, external cladding, underlay for tiles in showers, even roofing in some sheds. It can get wet every rainy season and not lose structural integrity. It has a slight porosity – it can absorb some water (like concrete does) but then it dries out; importantly, it doesn’t soften or rot. Performance-wise, if you need something for an exterior wall or an area that might often be wet (like the side of a building, or a signboard backing, or even the walls of a low-cost house), cement board is ideal. One thing: cement board does have moisture movement – it can expand slightly when wet (a few mm in long lengths), so design should allow for that (gaps for expansion, etc.). Also freezing conditions – cement boards are formulated to be freeze-thaw stable, whereas HDHMR would definitely not endure freezing water (it’d crack or the ice expansion would break it apart). So climate is a factor too: cement board is used from tropics to cold regions; HDHMR is best indoors in non-freezing conditions (not that it’s a common issue to have cabinets freezing, but just for context).

Strength & Structural Integrity: HDHMR – very strong for cabinetry and furniture. It holds screws better than normal MDF (almost approaching plywood, though plywood still wins in sheer screw pull-out resistance by a margin). It’s rigid and not prone to bending under moderate loads because of high density. But long spans of HDHMR shelves will need support (like any wood product). Under a heavy load, HDHMR will gradually sag if unsupported – it’s stiff but not as stiff as cement board of same thickness. HDHMR’s big advantage is toughness: it’s not brittle. It can take some flex and impact without cracking. If you screw into it, it holds fairly well (just avoid too close to edges to prevent splitting, similar to wood). So in performance, an HDHMR cabinet can bear heavy kitchen utensils, an HDHMR partition can hold up to knocks, etc. Cement fiber board – high compressive and decent bending strength but brittle. It does not like point loads or tension. If you make a shelf of Bison panel and put a heavy load mid-span, it might not visibly sag as much as wood (since it’s very stiff), but one day it could suddenly crack. It doesn’t give warning by bending a lot – it just reaches a failure point and snaps. This is why cement boards are always screwed onto frameworks (steel or wood framing at regular intervals) – they need support. They are fantastic in wall panels (where they are supported continuously over area), or flooring when lying on joists spaced appropriately. But if you ask a 12mm cement board to span 3 feet with a person’s weight on it, it will likely break. Also, screw holding: in cement board is tricky – the screw threads don’t bite into cement like they do in wood; often, specialized screws with coarse threads or anchors are used. Direct screwing without anchors can result in the screw loosening if there’s vibration or load. So for mounting things (like hinge to a cement board door), you have to use through-bolts or sleeve anchors, etc. Meanwhile, HDHMR you can just drive a screw and it’ll hold a hinge decently (maybe not as good as hardwood, but sufficiently with pilot hole).

Durability: Each in its domain – indoors, HDHMR will last ages, whereas standard particle board might crumble, HDHMR stays intact (no delamination, no pest damage, minimal swelling). Outdoors, HDHMR wouldn’t last, whereas cement board will last but you’ll likely need to repaint it every so often (cement board paint can crack over years due to small movements or cement’s porous nature). Cement board is often guaranteed for decades in construction – it’s considered dimensionally stable and inert (some come with 25-year warranty for facade use). HDHMR often has manufacturer warranty ~5-15 years for indoor use (not because it falls apart after that, but that’s typical warranty period for interior products). So both are durable when used where they should be: HDHMR for interior/furniture – no rot, no collapse if not waterlogged; Cement board for exterior/utility – no rot or termite at all, just maintenance of finishes needed.

Fire & Heat: Quick mention – HDHMR, being wood-based, will ignite and burn (though slower than pine wood, for example, due to density and resins). Cement board is pretty much fireproof, which is why it’s used as fire barriers. That can be a performance factor: e.g., if building a fire-resistant partition or lining a fireplace, cement board is the go-to (HDHMR would be unsafe there). For typical home interior, fire isn’t the deciding factor but in some use-cases (like a kitchen wall behind a stove – though HDHMR is fine in kitchens, if someone really wanted non-combustible surfaces, they might lean cement board with tile).

Now, given these performance characteristics, let’s explore which use-cases are best suited for each material.

Applications / Best Use Cases

When to Use HDHMR Board: - Indoor Furniture & Cabinetry: HDHMR truly shines here. Kitchen cabinets, bathroom vanities, wardrobes, office furniture, storage units – anywhere you need a durable board that can be cut and assembled like wood but want it to be termite-proof and moisture-resistant. For example, if you’re making a modular kitchen carcass, HDHMR is ideal (resists kitchen humidity and occasional leaks far better than plywood or MDF). For a bathroom vanity, HDHMR will outperform normal MDF which would swell – it stays intact even with steam and the occasional splash (assuming laminated surfaces, sealed edges). - Interior Partitions & Paneling: If you need to create a non-structural partition wall or wall paneling inside a home or office, HDHMR boards on a frame are great. They can be carved or CNC-routed for decorative panels, given their homogeneous fiber structure – something cement boards cannot do (cement board would shatter if you tried fine CNC patterning). HDHMR can take intricate designs (like jali patterns) for interiors. - Termite-Prone Areas (Indoors): In places with severe termite issues (e.g., ground floor storeroom, wooden false ceiling backing), using HDHMR ensures the pests don’t eat up the boards – a common scenario where it’s beneficial. It’s an easy substitute for plywood in most interior fit-outs where termite risk is high – shelving, door shutters, etc. - Moveable Items & Ease of Work: If you need to build something that might be moved or modified often (say an exhibition stall, stage sets, or modular furniture), HDHMR’s lighter weight and ease of re-cutting is helpful. Cement boards are heavy and chip if moved roughly; HDHMR pieces can be unscrewed, reinstalled, trimmed – it handles like wood. - Finishing Flexibility: When you desire a high-quality finish like veneers or glossy laminates, HDHMR provides a very smooth substrate. For instance, hi-gloss acrylic finish on a wardrobe – you’d want HDHMR or MDF behind it, not cement board (cement’s roughness would telegraph). - Combined with Other Woodwork: If you need to join boards with typical carpentry methods (screws, dowels, cams in modular furniture), HDHMR is compatible. Cement board is not suitable for most knock-down fittings or fine joinery. So anything like a bookshelf with cam-lock connectors – definitely HDHMR.

When to Use Cement Fiber Board (Bison Panel): - Exterior Cladding & Construction: This is a primary domain. Use cement board for facade cladding, exterior sidings, boundary walls, fencing panels, roof soffits, balcony ceilings, eaves, etc. – places exposed to rain, sun, insects. For example, Bison panels are often used to clad affordable housing exteriors or to make compound walls (painted to look like concrete). They don’t rot or get termite holes even if one side touches soil (just need a protective paint against moisture absorption). - Wet or Industrial Interiors: In areas that are constantly wet or rough – say, cow sheds, poultry farms, public toilets, chemical labs, or factory interiors – cement board works better. It can get hosed down with water (some use it for bathroom partition walls, etc.). Also, it’s not affected by chemical fumes as wood-based might be, so in certain factories or coastal saline air, cement board stays inert. - Structural Uses & Flooring: Cement bonded boards can double as floor underlayment (e.g., on joists for mezzanines or as permanent shuttering). Also as backer boards for tiles (in bathrooms behind tiles to prevent moisture damage that drywall might get). It’s often used in false floors or roofs for modular site offices (e.g., 18mm Bison panel as a floor on a steel frame – can handle people walking with appropriate supports). HDHMR would break or soak if used like that. - Fire-Rated Constructions: Need a fireproof ceiling or wall (like in a kitchen hood area or an escape corridor)? Cement fiber board is the choice because of its non-combustibility. It’s used in fire-rated partition systems (with rockwool infill etc. to get 1-2 hour fire rating) – HDHMR couldn’t achieve that. - Termite-Proof Structural Elements: If you’re building something like a small outdoor shed or a treehouse or gazebo and want the boards to hold some structure and be termite/weather-proof, you’d pick cement board. For instance, many prefab cabins use cement board for walls and roof sheathing, since it faces all weather; HDHMR is only used for inside furniture of those cabins. - Sound Dampening Construction: This is niche, but cement boards being dense and stiff can reflect sound and also combined with insulation can be good for acoustic walls. HDHMR has decent mass but is more resonant (woody). - Places Where Finishing Isn’t Aesthetic Priority: If you’re building something utilitarian like a storage area in a damp basement or an agricultural feed room – Bison panel can be used without fancy finishes, just paint. It’ll outlast plywood down there. It’s not pretty by itself but functional. HDHMR in such environment might survive but usually you’d still laminate or something for looks/protection.

Combining Both: In some cases, you might actually use both together: e.g., an outdoor kitchen – you could use a cement board as the substrate for the countertop or walls (for weather resistance) but HDHMR for the cabinet doors (for easier machining and better finish with laminates) as long as those doors aren’t directly in rain (or you laminate them well). Or in a bathroom: cement board for sub-walls or wet zones, HDHMR for the vanity and cabinets. They each play to their strengths.

Design & Aesthetic Differences

Appearance & Finish: HDHMR is a smooth, brown wood-based board, while cement fiber boards are grey and cementitious. - HDHMR can seamlessly blend into interior designs because it can take on any surface finish – high-gloss laminates, wood veneers, paint with polish, etc. So aesthetically, HDHMR allows you to achieve rich, furniture-grade looks. For example, a kitchen made with HDHMR can look identical to one made with plywood because the laminate outside is what you see. HDHMR edges can be edge-banded to look neat. You can also router decorative profiles on HDHMR cabinet shutters (like shaker style grooves) – it’s possible, though a bit taxing on tools; but it’s something you absolutely cannot do on cement board (would crack). - Cement board is rarely chosen for aesthetics. It has a utilitarian look (some designers use it intentionally for an industrial vibe – the raw cement panel look on walls, sealed with clear coat, is a style one could adopt for a loft interior). But typically, if used indoors, you’d plaster or paint it. It doesn’t have the warm feel of wood. You cannot polish it to look like wood (some try faux painting techniques to mimic wood grain, but that’s superficial). If used externally, you can texture paint it to look like stone or just have a clean painted facade. Bison panels have a slight textural pattern (because they’re made in sheets with a steel mold that can impart a pattern). The standard Bison has a mesh-like fine pattern on one side – if left exposed, that pattern is visible (some designers incorporate that raw look for exteriors). - Detailing: For fine interior details – say, rounding off edges, carving patterns, embedding hardware flush – HDHMR handles that well. You can edge rout an HDHMR shelf to have a curved edge; if you try rounding a cement board edge, it might chip and also expose the interior wood particles in it which are rough. Cement board edges are usually just chamfered slightly to remove sharpness or covered with an aluminium/U-PVC profile in designs. - Joinery and Designs: If you want built-in furniture with invisible joints, HDHMR allows typical carpentry joinery. Cement board constructions often show the fasteners or require visible rivets/brackets because hidden joinery is hard (gluing cement board is tricky – it doesn’t adhere as well to glues except epoxy perhaps, whereas HDHMR glues like wood with carpenter’s glue). So for built-ins where aesthetics of joinery matter (like a seamless big cabinet or a feature wall panel), HDHMR’s easier to make look seamless (laminate covers joints, etc.). A cement board wall will have visible panel joints unless you plaster over them. - Painting: If you plan to paint your furniture (some wardrobes are painted finishes), HDHMR gives a smooth base – you can achieve a glossy or matte uniform paint easily. Cement board will always have a slight cement texture unless you skim coat it with putty or plaster which is an extra step. - Design style compatibility: HDHMR suits interior styles (modern, traditional if veneered, etc.) whereas cement board suits a raw industrial or exterior utilitarian style. Rarely would someone make, say, a decorative living room cabinet out of cement board – it just doesn’t lend itself to fine detailing or luxurious finishes.

Feel & Touch: A finished HDHMR piece feels like any laminate furniture – edges can be smoothed, surfaces continuous. A finished cement board (painted) still feels like concrete to touch – cold, and possibly slight unevenness if not finished perfectly. If left unpainted, it’s rough. Not something you typically want to touch daily (imagine a cabinet door that feels like a sidewalk slab vs one that’s smooth laminate – big difference).

Weight in design: Cement board’s heaviness means if you use it, your design needs to accommodate that – heavier duty hinges, more structural support. Using HDHMR in cabinets, you can hang a door with 2-3 normal hinges. A cement board door of the same size might weigh double – needing more hinges or special consideration. For sliding or folding designs, weight is a key factor – HDHMR is better. For instance, a large 7ft wardrobe door – doable in HDHMR with standard hardware; in cement board, it’d be so heavy and hardware would struggle, plus screw holding for hinges could fail.

Sound & Insulation: Minor aesthetic factor – HDHMR cabinets when closed have a wooden thunk; cement board panels have a harder, sometimes echoey or stone-like sound when tapped. If acoustics matter (like in a music room partition), cement board is actually good at blocking sound due to density, but it can also reflect sound strongly in a room (making echoes). HDHMR slightly absorbs some high-frequency sound due to wood content.

In summary, for interior aesthetics and fine design details, HDHMR is far superior. Cement boards are chosen for function or a certain raw aesthetic, not for refined interior design. They come into play aesthetically more for exteriors (where a plain painted cement board facade can look sleek if done right). Interiors usually hide the cement board behind tiles or plaster. Interiors showcase HDHMR’s finish (through laminates/veneers on it).

Cost vs Value Assessment

Material Cost: Price-wise, HDHMR and cement boards are in a similar general range per square foot, but it depends on thickness and brand. Let’s approximate: - A 12mm HDHMR sheet (8×4) might be around ₹1500–₹2000 (approx ₹50–₹65 per sq.ft) depending on brand. - A 12mm Bison cement board 8×4 is roughly ₹1200–₹1500 (₹40–₹50 per sq.ft). So cement boards can be a bit cheaper per sq.ft for equal thickness. However, cement boards often require more support framing and special screws which add to installation cost. HDHMR might require edge banding/laminate which adds cost too. If comparing raw material alone: cement board is often marketed as a low-cost building board for mass housing, so it’s kept affordable. For thicker sizes: - 18mm HDHMR ~ ₹90–₹110/sq.ft (₹2880–₹3520 per sheet). - 18mm cement board ~ ₹60–₹70/sq.ft (maybe ₹1920 per sheet) (some listings show Bison ~₹2000 for 18mm). So cement board often costs ~20-30% less than HDHMR for similar thickness. That’s material; labor cost flips this somewhat (because working with cement boards is slower/harder, might charge more).

Installation/Labor Costs: HDHMR is straightforward for carpenters – similar to plywood/MDF. Cement boards often require a mason or a carpenter with masonry bits and may need a helper because heavy. Cutting one cement board might take the time of cutting several HDHMR boards. So labor for cement board installation could be 1.5x or 2x in cost compared to working with HDHMR (e.g., carpenters might charge extra for handling Bison panels due to blade wear and difficulty). Also, finishing cement boards (painting/plastering) adds labor whereas HDHMR’s usually finished with laminate by the carpenter itself. So, value-wise, if your application doesn’t strictly need cement board, using HDHMR could be more cost-effective when factoring labor because a modular cabinet in HDHMR can be made quickly by one team, whereas making same from cement board might involve multiple trades (fabricator for frame, then fixing boards, then painter).

Longevity vs Cost: We consider ROI: - HDHMR in proper use (indoors, protected) will last decades. It might be slightly pricier but ensures no termite refurbishments, etc. For a kitchen, using HDHMR might cost a bit more upfront than cheaper boards, but saves you from any pest-related rebuild for a long time – great value. - Cement board in harsh use (exterior etc.) also lasts decades and saves you from having to replace wood siding every few years due to rot or termite. It may be an economical solution compared to, say, marine plywood plus lots of treatment in an exterior (which still may not last as long). - In some interior cases like a damp basement, if you used HDHMR (assuming moderate damp, not flooding) vs cement board, the HDHMR might do fine and you saved effort; but if it were extreme moisture, using cement board might avoid future replacement that HDHMR might need if it fails. So each shines where it avoids future costs.

Value for Interiors: For typical interior projects, HDHMR provides far better value because you get ease of working, good finish, and sufficient durability. Cement board indoors often is overkill and comes with inconveniences (unless you specifically need non-combustibility or such, which most home interiors don’t justify). So spending on cement board inside could be spending more labor and not benefiting much more than what HDHMR would give, aside maybe bragging rights of "concrete furniture" which is niche.

Value for Exteriors/Structural: Conversely, using HDHMR outside is false economy – you might initially find it similar price and easier to install, but if it fails due to weather/bugs, you’ll pay to replace it. Cement board outside gives a "fit and forget" long-term value as it’s purpose-built for that environment.

Maintenance costs: HDHMR furniture and cabinets have minimal maintenance (just keep dry and edges sealed). Cement board exteriors might need periodic painting (like any cement wall) and checking of joints sealing, etc. So factor that in – if the cost of repaint every 5 years is acceptable for the longevity gained (which typically it is), cement board is fine. If one expected a no-maintenance scenario, know that even though the board won’t rot, the surface may need upkeep.

Hybrid Value: You can use each where best suited to maximize overall project value: Example: Build main structure of a portable cabin in cement board (for weather durability), but do interior cabinetry in HDHMR (ease and comfort). Or build bathroom walls with cement boards (so they won't deteriorate behind tiles), but vanity in HDHMR (for nicer finishes). That combination ensures longevity and good looks at an optimized cost – you’re not overspending on cement board where not needed or risking wood boards where they underperform.

Summary: HDHMR is a high-value interior material – you pay more than MDF/Particle board but you get peace of mind (pests/moisture) and easier finishing than going to something like metal or plastic alternatives. Cement board is high-value for exterior/structural uses – you pay a moderate price for something that replaces both wood and concrete block in some scenarios, saving time and structural weight.

Now, let’s cover common questions to address any remaining specifics:

FAQs

Can I use HDHMR boards for exterior purposes or outdoor furniture if I paint/laminate them well?

Answer: Generally, it’s not recommended to use HDHMR outdoors in the open, even if you paint or laminate it. HDHMR is moisture-resistant but not designed for constant weather exposure – changes in temperature, UV sunlight, and repeated wet-dry cycles will eventually cause it to swell or degrade. Paint and laminate do provide some protection, but any small crack or gap will let moisture in, and once water is in the wood fibers, trouble begins (swelling, mold). Also, UV rays can break down the resin in HDHMR over time (something cement board doesn’t mind). In practice, if it’s a semi-outdoor situation – say a balcony cabinet that’s somewhat sheltered from rain – some people do use HDHMR (with marine-grade paint or laminate plus edge sealing) and it might last a while, but it’s a risk. If you absolutely want to try it, ensure: all edges are sealed with waterproof resin or edge band, use exterior-grade laminates or coatings, and try to shield it from direct rain and sun (e.g., under an awning). Even then, you might get a few years of life, but not as long as cement fiber board or proper outdoor materials. So, the safe answer is to keep HDHMR for interiors. For outdoor furniture, materials like chemically treated plywood, WPC (wood-plastic composite), or cement board are safer. HDHMR’s value is in interior longevity; outdoors you’d be pushing it beyond its intended service, potentially throwing away money when it fails prematurely.

Is cement fiber board (Bison panel) suitable for making furniture or cabinets like in a kitchen or should it only be used for construction (walls, ceilings)?

Answer: Cement fiber boards are primarily meant for construction (walls, ceilings, cladding, flooring substrate). They are not ideal for fine cabinetry or furniture for a few reasons: they’re heavy, hard to work with standard woodworking tools, and don’t hold screws as securely in small joinery applications. If you tried to build a kitchen cabinet carcass out of Bison panel: you’d struggle to screw panels together (you’d likely need to bolt them), and the finished product would be extremely heavy to hang on wall or move. Also, getting a neat finish inside/outside a cabinet would require plastering or many coats of paint – not the usual smooth laminate interior one expects. That said, in some industrial settings or extremely termite-prone environments, people have made basic cabinets or storage racks with cement board on a steel frame. Those are more like utility shelves (bolt cement panels to an angle iron frame). For a home kitchen, it’s overkill and impractical. So, it should generally be reserved for structural panels: walls, partitions, backing boards, etc., and not for the boxes of furniture. Use HDHMR or other engineered wood for the cabinet boxes for better fit and finish, and perhaps you could use a cement board panel as a backing if you need fire resistance or such. In summary: you can make rudimentary furniture with cement board (it won’t rot or get eaten), but expect it to look and function more like masonry (think of concrete benches or tables – durable but not elegant). It’s not a replacement for carpentry boards in typical furniture.

Which one is more cost-effective for building termite-proof interiors: HDHMR or Bison cement board?

Answer: For interiors, HDHMR is more cost-effective and practical. While the raw price per sheet might be a bit higher for HDHMR than Bison, the labor to construct interior elements from cement board would be much higher, and the end result might not meet the aesthetic or functional expectations (leading to potential rework or dissatisfaction). HDHMR lets you use normal joinery methods and achieve a good finish, saving time and money in finishing. Cement board inside would often require a metal framework plus additional finishing like plaster or tile, which gets more expensive unless it’s part of a construction wall. So, for making termite-proof furniture/cabinets inside, HDHMR gives better value (you invest a bit more than normal MDF, but you get the desired outcome without pests). Cement board’s termite-proofness is 100%, but implementing it in an interior context might end up costing more overall and giving you a less convenient result. Cement board shines cost-wise when you use it for what it’s meant: e.g., instead of a brick wall, you use a Bison board partition – that might be cheaper and faster. But instead of a wooden cabinet, using Bison board likely is not cheaper when considering full project scope. So cost-effectiveness: HDHMR for interior furnishings; cement board for structural partitions/exteriors.

If my area is very humid or prone to flooding, will HDHMR boards survive, or should I stick to cement boards?

Answer: In extremely humid conditions (e.g., coastal, high-moisture climate), HDHMR boards do well for interiors – they won’t warp with seasonal humidity changes and have been tested in those environments (users in Mumbai, Chennai, etc. report HDHMR cabinets stay stable through monsoons, unlike some plywood). However, if there’s a risk of actual flooding or water submersion, HDHMR will not handle being submerged for long. It’s not waterproof like plastic; after some hours underwater, it will swell (even though less than normal particle board, it will swell maybe 8-10% or so and lose some integrity). If your space might flood (e.g., ground floor in heavy rains), then using cement board for lower sections might be wise because it can dry out after a flood with minimal damage (maybe some surface cleaning and repainting). We’ve seen cement boards used in construction for flood-prone areas specifically for that resilience. Another scenario: a house in a swampy area – cement board for kitchen bottom cabinets could survive even if water enters occasionally, whereas HDHMR cabinets might need replacement after a serious inundation. So, for high humidity – HDHMR is fine; for flood risk – lean towards cement board or design such that the boards are elevated above flood levels or consider waterproof plastic composite boards. Also, consider a combination: maybe a concrete or cement board base (kickboard) for cabinets touching the floor and HDHMR above that – so if flood waters of a few inches come, they hit the cement base, not the HDHMR. That approach is used in some areas. Overall, think of it like: HDHMR can handle humidity but not being waterlogged; cement board can handle even standing water to an extent. So in extreme moisture scenarios, cement board (or other waterproof materials) might be the safer bet for longevity, even if it’s harder to work with or not as pretty by itself.

Do I need special tools to work with Bison cement boards?

Answer: Yes, working with cement fiber boards requires some adjustments from standard wood tools: - Cutting: Ideally use a carbide-tipped circular saw blade rated for fiber cement or a diamond grit blade. Wood-cutting blades will dull quickly on cement board and can even overheat. Also, cutting should be done slowly and with dust control (it creates a lot of fine silica dust which is harmful to breathe – you need a mask and preferably a vacuum or wet cutting technique). Some folks score and snap thinner boards (like you do with drywall) – you can with 6mm maybe, but thicker boards require sawing or angle grinder cuts. - Drilling: Use masonry drill bits (carbide-tipped) for holes, not regular high-speed steel bits (those will dull out). And use lower speeds to avoid cracking. - Fastening: Use corrosion-resistant screws (the cement’s alkalinity can rust normal screws fast). Typically, self-drilling fiber cement board screws are available – they have a drill-like tip and often a ribbed head to countersink into the board. Predrilling holes slightly smaller than the screw core is recommended to avoid stress cracking. Maintain some distance from edges (at least 3/4″ or 20mm) for screw positions to prevent edge cracking. - Handling: It’s heavy, so you may need clamps or supports when cutting large pieces to prevent snapping under its own weight. Two people to carry full sheets. - Finishing: Regular wood routers or jigsaws are not great on cement board (they’ll wear out blades instantly and likely break bits). So you can’t easily do fancy cuts or curves – mostly straight cuts with above tools. - Dust: The dust is a big issue – unlike wood dust, which is organic (still not great to inhale), cement board dust contains silica which can cause lung issues like silicosis. So a proper respirator and eye protection is a must, and cut outdoors or with good ventilation. Wetting the cut line can help keep dust down but makes a mess with slurry. Given all that, many carpenters don’t like working with it unless they have to – sometimes these boards are installed by civil/construction crew rather than woodworkers, because it’s akin to working with a concrete sheet. So yes, special tools (or at least appropriate blades/bits) and safety precautions are needed. In contrast, HDHMR can be worked with normal woodworking tools (just ensure blades are sharp because it’s dense, but nothing exotic needed beyond maybe carbide tips that most use anyway for plywood/MDF).

Are there any alternatives to HDHMR and cement boards for termite-proof construction?

Answer: Yes, depending on what you need, there are some alternatives: - WPC (Wood-Plastic Composite) boards: These are boards made of plastic (PVC) mixed with wood flour or calcium fillers. They are 100% waterproof and termite-proof (since a majority component is plastic). They can be used for cabinets and furniture. WPC boards can be cut and screwed similar to wood (though screw holding is sometimes less strong than HDHMR, you often have to use specialized screws or insert sleeves). They have a smooth finish and can be painted or laminated (some types may need surface preparation for lamination). WPC is an interior alternative one might consider if extreme water contact is expected – e.g., under-sink cabinet base sometimes is done in WPC. Cost-wise, WPC is often more expensive than HDHMR, but prices have been coming down. It’s a good termite-proof alternative for interiors if budget permits and if you’re okay with slightly less structural strength (for most cabinets it’s fine). - Marine Plywood with chemical treatment: If someone is very comfortable with traditional plywood, using a high-grade BWP (boiling waterproof) plywood that’s been factory treated for termites (some brands do offer termite-proof guarantee) is an alternative. It has the advantage of familiarity to carpenters and good strength. However, even the best plywood is not immune to termites if they really attack, and in very damp conditions plywood can delaminate eventually. Also costs for genuine marine ply are high, often higher than HDHMR. - Calcium Silicate Boards: Similar to cement boards but made with silica and cement (no wood content). These are also used in construction (for fireproof, moisture proof linings). They are lighter than cement boards and even more fireproof. But they’re brittle and usually only in thinner sheets (like 6-12mm). Good for ceilings, walls. Not typical for furniture. - Sheet Metal or Aluminium Composite Panels (ACP): For some storage or cabinet needs (like lab furniture or outdoor cabinets), using metal sheets or ACP panels (which are aluminium sheets with plastic core) can be an alternative. They are termite-proof and waterproof. But making an entire kitchen out of metal or ACP changes the aesthetic and requires metalworking skills. Usually, these are used for particular cases (e.g., outdoor electrical cabinets often are metal). - Solid Plastic boards (PVC foam boards): There are PVC foam boards (sometimes called “plastic plywood”) which are basically PVC sheets (like WPC but 100% PVC foam). They are waterproof, termite-proof, and very light and easy to cut (almost too easy – they are less sturdy, best for small cabinets or as laminate backers etc.). They can be used for under-sink cabinets or bathroom vanity interiors. They don’t have the screw holding of HDHMR, but for light duty they work and absolutely no rot or termite can occur. They’re often more expensive by volume and have lower load capacity. - Concrete itself or brick masonry: For termite-proof built-ins (like masonry kitchen platforms with tiled finish, common in some regions), one can avoid wood altogether by building with bricks/concrete and then just adding doors (which could be cement board or uPVC doors). This is an old-school alternative – extremely durable and termite-proof, but you lose flexibility and interior finish finesse. However, some still do it for ground floor kitchens or wash areas. Each alternative has pros/cons, but if the comparison is specifically termite-proof boards: WPC/PVC boards are the closest alternative to consider against HDHMR or cement board for interior carpentry – they handle water better than HDHMR and are easier to work with than cement board. They might be a bit costlier and have slightly different structural properties, but worth looking into for special cases (e.g., a completely waterproof vanity or a cabinet literally exposed to rain – PVC board could do that, whereas HDHMR wouldn’t, and cement board would but with difficulty to make into a cabinet).

Conclusion:

HDHMR boards and Cement Fiber (Bison) boards are both “termite-proof” solutions, but they serve different realms of construction. For interior cabinetry and furniture, HDHMR is the superior choice – it offers excellent resistance to pests and moisture while providing the workability and finish quality needed for beautiful interiors. It essentially gives you worry-free cabinets that look great and last long, which is tremendous value in a termite-prone country.

On the other hand, for exterior and structural needs, Cement Fiber boards are king – they laugh off rain, sun, and termite attacks completely. If you’re building something that faces the elements or needs non-combustibility, Bison panels or similar cement boards will serve you for decades without rotting or being feasted on by insects.

In a nutshell: - Use HDHMR inside: kitchens, wardrobes, bathroom vanities, bed frames – you’ll get an easy-to-build, premium finish product that resists that sneaky termite colony and the occasional spill. - Use Cement fiber boards outside or in utility structures: cladding your home, making fence panels, constructing a garden shed or a farmhouse poultry enclosure – they’ll handle those rough conditions where wood-based boards wouldn’t stand a chance.

Always consider the context: sometimes a combination is best (e.g., cement board base for a cabinet that touches a damp floor, with HDHMR for the rest, or HDHMR for indoor furniture with a cement board backing where it touches an exterior wall).

By choosing the right material for the right place, you ensure maximum longevity and value – enjoying the benefits of termite-proof, moisture-resistant boards with minimal maintenance or surprises down the line.

If you have a specific project and aren’t sure which way to go, feel free to reach out for a consultation or quote. We can evaluate your use-case and recommend the optimal material (or mix of materials), and help source quality HDHMR or cement boards as needed.

Build smart, and may your creations stay solid and bug-free for years!

Explore Related: Interested in other comparisons? Check out hdhmr-vs-mdf-vs-plywood-comparison to see how HDHMR stacks against standard MDF and plywood. Or read our termite-proofing-wood-tips for tips on protecting woodwork from pests when you do use natural wood.

Disclaimer: This article is generated using AI-assisted research and is intended for informational purposes only. While we strive for accuracy, readers are advised to verify all technical, pricing, and brand-specific details with official sources. hdhmr.in is not liable for any decisions made based on this content.